How to Do Rome the Right Way

With private guides, turn a few short days in the Eternal City into the coolest trip ever.

Of all the perspectives to appreciate the Roman Forum’s magnificence, my favorite is from the nave inside the off-limits Church of San Lorenzo in Miranda. Though I was stunned when my tour guide and a church custodian opened a pair of 12-foot-tall, green wooden doors revealing the Forum’s overgrown ruins below, it’s the building’s complex history, fortitude despite centuries of change, and privacy from tourists that made the moment so unforgettable. I watched heads on the street turn to look our way – I don’t think those doors get much use.

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